What are Calibrated Gemstones, and Why are they Important for Jewelry Making

Know the Ins and Outs of Calibrated Gemstones

When working in the jewelry industry, especially if you are a freshman in it, it can be pretty daunting to choose and source gemstones and then deciding on a particular setting for them. Many times, the gemstones are not well-fitted into the size setting, and this happens because of the calibrated gemstones and their size tolerance. In this blog, we will dive into various conditions and topics related to Calibrated Gemstones, their varieties, gemstone dimensions and settings, and things that must be considered while you are shopping for them.

What Exactly are Calibrated Gemstones?

In most simple terms, calibrated gemstones are the ones that have been cut precisely to fit the standards of gemstone sizes and shapes in the jewelry industry. To ensure the uniformity and consistency in production throughout, these gems are diligently measured and cut to specific dimensions. This helps the jewelry designers to create pieces without any hindrance with matching gems. The main reason for calibrated gemstones being so popular in the jewelry industry is that they are very easy to be replaced without needing any major alterations. At the same time, the uniformity of their sizes makes them easy for mass production of jewels.

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Stone Sizing Variations in Calibrated Gemstones

Size variation in calibrated gemstones is the minimal difference that might occur when gemstones are cut to standard shapes and sizes. This variation is usually not noticeable to the eye and is influenced by the following factors:

1. Cutting Techniques: The process to cut the gemstones involves precision, skills and use of many tools. Even with the usage of advanced technology for cutting the gems, there might be slight variations in millimeter or mm sizes.
   
   
2. Size Tolerance: All the calibrated stones are made with some size tolerance, which means that they have a range so size variation that is acceptable as per the industry standards. The gemstone manufacturers tend to keep the variations in this range of tolerance. For example, a gemstone measuring from 4.8 mm to 5mm has a variation of 0.2 mm, which is very negligible. Although, the variation usually can go upto 0.5 mm.
   
   
3. Gemstone Properties: Different kinds of gemstones have different physical properties like mohs hardness scale, crystal structures, etc. These different characteristics of each type of gemstone can influence the shaping and cutting.
   
   
4. Polishing Process: After cutting, the gemstones go through the process of polishing for improving their shine and luster. This can lead to removal of a small amount of material from the surface of the gemstone, which can impact its overall dimensions.

Stone Setting Process

Stone setting is a very important step in gemstone calibration and requires attention to detail and utter precision. Here are the key aspects involved:

Choosing the Gemstone Setting

There are many pre-made settings available, the prominent ones are:

• Prong Setting: This is one of the most used settings in which metal prongs are used for holding the gemstone in place. These prongs can be adjusted as per the sizes of the gemstone to accommodate them into the settings.

• Bezel Setting: In this type of setting, the gemstone is encased in a metal rim as per its shape. This renders a good protection to the gem and also can be easily adapted to the calibrated sizes.

• Channel Setting: It involves placing the gemstone in a row between two walls of metal. This type of setting is used for calibrated gemstones for a more finished and elegant look.

Measuring the Gemstones

Before setting the calibrated stones, they are carefully measured along with the settings to ensure proper fit. This helps in ensuring that the stone fits perfectly in the setting without any gaps or tilting.

Securing the Mounting

After the measurement, the stones are securely mounted in the setting to prevent any damage or movement. Here, adjusting the bezels, tightening the prongs and using adhesive for more secure mounting can be done.

Finishing

Here, first the alignment and symmetry is carefully checked and then final touches like cleaning to remove any residual materials and polishing for enhancing the look of gemstone is performed.

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Commercial Gem Cuts

There are many popular gem cuts that are available in the market. These cuts are mostly standardized and are very popular in jewelry making. There are some of the commercial cuts that are used for calibrated gemstones:

• Round Cut: This is the classic cut for the majority of gemstones. This kind of cut is used specifically in stud earrings, solitaire rings and pendants.
• Princess Cut: This is a rectangular or square cut with multiple facets and sharp edges. It is often used in making bracelets, earrings, rings for a modern look.
• Emerald Cut: This type of cut is also square or rectangular in nature with stepped facets that lead to a mirror like effect. Calibrated gemstones with emerald cut are popular in the jewelry industry for showcasing the color and clarity and are used in pendants and rings.
• Oval Cut: As the name suggests, this cut features elongated oval shape with faceting pattern. Discard is pretty versatile in nature and can be used in various jewelry designs like rings, necklaces, pendants, earrings, etc.

Other cuts are Pear Cut, Cushion Cut, Marquise Cut and Baguette Cut.

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Calibrated Gemstone Varieties

The calibrated gems come in a wide range of varieties and types each offering the unique characteristics and beauty when paired with a particular commercial cut, like princess cut sapphires, round brilliant cut diamonds pear shape amethysts, etc.

Here are some popular calibrated gemstones in jewelry industry:

• Diamond
• Sapphire
• Ruby
• Amazonite
• Kyanite
• Amethyst
• Citrine
• Agate

Conclusion

In conclusion, calibrated gemstones offer a range of options for creating stunning and cohesive jewelry designs. Whether you prefer the classic brilliance of round diamonds or the vibrant hues of princess cut sapphires, there is a calibrated gemstone type to suit every style and aesthetic preference. Explore the world of calibrated gemstones and discover the perfect gemstone variety to elevate your jewelry creations with precision and beauty.