When buying gemstone jewelry, the choice of setting is very important. A bezel and prong setting are two different options that will greatly affect how secure, brilliant, and durable the gemstones will be over time. A bezel setting protects the gemstone to the maximum extent, providing the greatest amount of comfort when worn daily, especially for fragile stones; therefore, they are the best option. In contrast, a prong setting provides a greater amount of sparkle and a more classic style. The best choice will depend upon your lifestyle, the type of gemstone, and the design you prefer.

This guide provides all the information you need about the two types of settings, including their benefits and drawbacks, the different types of each, their best uses, and their cost, so you can make a more educated decision when making jewelry or buying jewelry. 

What Is Bezel Setting in Jewelry?

A bezel setting consists of a thin metal "rim"- a band of metal - which holds the gem securely in place, rather than using several smaller areas to hold it in place; this allows for a smoother and more modern appearance than prong settings with their point-type grips. It adds elegance, as well as excellent protection. This style has become increasingly popular in engagement rings, basic everyday pieces, and modern versions of other types of jewelry.

How a bezel setting holds a gemstone 

A bezel is a type of setting in which a gem is placed in a metal collar that fits the shape of the stone. The stone is then held in place with either pressure or burnishing, which locks it in place completely. By using this method, you will have:

• Even pressure holding securely around the perimeter of the stone
• Protection from chipping from some part of the stone that could break off, depending on the type of gemstone.
• A smooth surface that won't snag on your clothes or hair

The stone is totally encased in the setting and cannot come loose or fall out, which makes bezels an excellent choice for very soft and precious stones.

Types of Bezel Settings 

Bezel settings come in many styles, levels of protection, and sparkles.

• Full Bezel Setting: A full bezel completely surrounds the stone, giving it the best protection. This is great for everyday rings and stones that are soft or fragile. Full bezels are the most secure and are used in rings that may be worn continuously, such as engagement and anniversary rings.

• Partial/Half Bezel Setting: A partial or half bezel only partially surrounds the gemstone, balancing sparkle with security while allowing light to enter the gemstone for more brilliance. Partial bezels also have a lightweight, modern design compared to prong settings and provide a bit of bezel protection.

• Open Bezel Setting: Open bezels have cutouts on the sides or underneath the gemstone to allow more light to reach it, increasing its brilliance. They will also protect the edges of gemstones while allowing for a contemporary and airy appearance. Open bezels are typically designed for high-end designer jewelry where both beauty and durability are important.

Are Bezel Settings Safe for Gems?

One of the safest ways to set a stone is with a bezel setting. The bezel will hold the stone securely, so there is little chance that it will come loose or fall out if it is the right size.

Why Bezel Settings Are Considered One of the Most Secure Settings 

• Full metal encasement protects edges from chipping or cracking
• No exposed prongs to bend, break, or snag on fabric
• High resistance to accidental bumps and impacts

Because of these features, bezels are ideal for rings worn daily, for children, or for heirloom pieces that need to last for decades.

Best Gemstones for Bezel Settings

Bezel settings work best for stones that require edge protection:

• Diamonds are durable and hard-wearing

• Sapphires and rubies are resistant to scratches and chipping

• Cabochon stones are smooth, rounded stones that fit perfectly into a bezel.

Does a Bezel Setting Reduce Sparkle?

The concern exists that bezel settings may interfere with the brilliance of gemstones due to their inability to allow light to enter from all sides. However, 90% of the brilliance of a gemstone comes from the light that enters the gem from above; therefore, the impact on sparkle may not be significant. 

Light Performance in Bezel vs Prong Settings

• The prong setting provides the ability for light to enter the stone from multiple angles, which enhances the overall sparkle. 
• The bezel setting only allows light to enter from above while protecting the stone inside the setting. A well-cut gemstone set in a bezel can still appear to be glittering and vibrant.

How Open & Partial Bezels Improve Brilliance 

• Open backs of a setting give a location for light to reflect up into a stone and create additional brilliance. 
• A slim bezel has less metal and exposes more of the stone than a thicker bezel; therefore, the brilliance is improved. 
• A setting made from bright metals such as white gold or platinum will give a better contrast to the sparkle of the stone, thus making it even brighter.

Therefore, with the above design strategies, a bezel setting can maintain the same degree of brilliance but still be secure.

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What Are Prongs in Jewelry Settings?

Prongs are the small metal fingers that hold a stone in certain areas, which are raised above the ring shank. This traditional style of mounting helps to intensify the amount of light that enters through the bottom of your diamond, thereby increasing its brilliance and sparkle.

How Prong Settings Secure a Gemstone 

The prongs are bent over the girdle of the stone to help secure the stone. This way of holding the stone provides several benefits, including:

• Allows more light to enter the gemstones
• Creates the illusion of a larger stone
• Provides moderate security based on the condition of the prongs.

Types of Prong Settings 

A prong setting can be found in a variety of different designs and will vary in both security and aesthetics. 

• 4-Prong Setting
• Classic for engagement rings in the United States.
• Has a medium level of security.
• It will enhance the visual appeal of the stone by offering a larger exposed area.

• 6-Prong Setting

• A 6-prong setting will increase the security provided by a 5-prong or 4-prong configuration for larger stones.
• Distributes the weight more evenly.
• It will reduce the chance of the gemstone being lost.

• Claw-style prong setting
• Features thinly tapered prongs that provide a simple yet elegant look.
• Focuses the viewer's attention on the gemstone and away from the metal.
• Often seen in higher-end jewelry.

• Cabochon-style prong settings
• To be used with rounded stones, cabochons are typically not found in the standard ring sizes preferred by most people.
• Typically used for decorative or artistic designs, and not as often as with other types of prong settings.

Pros & Cons of Bezel Settings 

Bezel setting provides the most secure and comfortable setting for any gemstone. 

Advantages of Bezel Settings 

• Provides maximum protection for the stone
• A smooth edge eliminates the possibility of snags
• Great option for everyday wear
• Protects against corner damage and fragility

Disadvantages of Bezel Settings 

• May slightly limit the amount of light entering the stone
• More metal is needed to create bezel settings, which increases their cost
• Poorly designed Bezel Settings may be perceived as bulky compared to other types of settings

Bezel vs. Prong Setting: Comparison Table 

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Prongs vs. Bezel Settings for Daily Wear Jewelry

When it comes to daily wear jewelry, it is essential that it also be comfortable, durable, and require little upkeep. This makes it very important to choose your setting carefully.

Best Setting Options for an Active Lifestyle:

• A bezel setting is perfect for the physical work and activities that people do every day.

• Prong setting is better suited to light day-to-day use (office wear).

Low-Profile Settings for Everyday Use

Because a bezel setting sits much lower on the finger, it is less likely to catch or snag and can also provide added comfort when worn consistently throughout the day.

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Best Setting for Custom Gemstone Jewelry 

Custom jewelry lets you select the setting according to the type of stone and your preferred lifestyle.

When Jewelers Recommend Bezel Settings 

• Gemstones that are softer and require extra safety or protection
• Thin edges around a gemstone or fragile stones
• Durability and comfort are important to the client

When Prong Setting

• Larger stones or stones that are cut for maximum sharpness
• Traditional-style engagement rings
• Situations where maximum sparkle is desired

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Best Setting for Oval, Round & Emerald Cut Stones

The shape of a gemstone has an impact on how well bezels protect the edges and how well prongs are able to bring out its brilliance and extend its appearance.

• Oval-cut gemstones: Bezels protect the edges, while prongs make the crystal long and sparkly.

• Round-cut gemstones: The prongs make the stone look more brilliant, and the bezels give the finished piece a modern look.

• Emerald-cut gemstones: Bezels that go around the corners to protect them more. This shape is good for everyday use and long-lasting wear.

Prong Retipping Cost in the USA 

Prong settings must be maintained on a regular basis to ensure the security of stones.

When to retip prongs:

• Metal has become thin
• Stones are loose
• Prongs may have bent or flattened

Average Price of Retipping Prongs in the United States:

• Average cost per prong is $40-$100
• Platinum costs more than gold
• Intricate designs will increase the cost of labor.

Stone Setting Techniques Used by Jewelers 

With proper stone setting, you can ensure the longevity and visual appeal of your stone.

Bezel Setting Method

• A stone set in a collar made of metal
• Metal smoothed evenly around the stone
• Provides long-term protection for the stone

Prong Setting Method

• Prongs aligned precisely
• Prongs were carefully bent and finished
• Prongs are regularly inspected to prevent becoming loose

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Final Thoughts 

You should think about your lifestyle and what matters to you before choosing between a bezel setting and a prong setting. Choose a bezel setting if you want something safe, comfortable, and long-lasting for everyday use. If you prefer maximum sparkle and a traditional look, select a prong setting, but know that prong settings require periodic care.

Both options provide an opportunity to create beautiful designs, and selecting the correct option depends upon your usage of that jewelry and the degree of protection provided to your gemstone by the setting.

FAQ 

Is a Bezel Setting Better than a Prong Setting?

Bezel settings provide more protection to your stones; conversely, prong settings allow for maximum brilliance.

Will Prong Settings Become Loose Over Time?

Yes. It is important to have prongs inspected regularly and re-tipped occasionally.

Is a Bezel Setting Acceptable for Engagement Rings in the USA? 

Absolutely! A bezel setting is becoming increasingly popular as an engagement ring option because of its durability.

What is the Best Setting for a Custom Gemstone?

Depending on the type of stone, how often the jewelry will be worn, and the design objective, either option could be suitable. Bezels tend to provide more durability, while prongs provide more "sparkle."